BRINGING PUPPY HOME:
Coming home will start out with a car ride from the breeder’s home. Try to keep this from being an overly stressful experience for the pup. The main problem dogs have with car rides usually is not what we humans refer to as motion sickness, but simple anxiety about the vibrations, sounds, and to a lesser degree, the movement. We do not put them in a crate for traveling. Remember, they are small and easy to hold. Rather, we have someone other than the driver hold the puppy in a blanket or towel and talk or in some way try to distract him from the ride.
In our homes, we plan for this introductory period by keeping the puppy involved with plenty of attention from children and other family members. When we are not with the puppy, she is sleeping. You will be amazed how time spent in this manner will speed up the housebreaking process.
POTTY TRAINING:
When you bring your puppy home from the breeder, it should have been exposed to and accustomed to a clean den environment. This is because as your puppy grows bigger and more energetic, the breeder would have taken him outside for a short periods of time or had an indoor potty pan available . Your pup would have learned to eliminate and defecate in the outdoor environment or special indoor place and get accustomed to a clean indoor den where it sleeps eats and plays with toys.
You should immediately establish a specific potty area for your puppy in your yard once you bring him home.
The specific potty area should be separated from the rest of your yard by a small fence, or potted plants. This will keep the children out of the potty area and also hides the area away from the rest of the yard.
Remember to use firm low tone when you say the command “outside” as it will startle him and cause him to stop eliminating. You have to quickly walk your puppy to the outside potty area for him to finish eliminating there. Praise him once he has finished eliminating in the appropriate potty area.
Importantly, praise your puppy after he eliminates after your command. Reward him with a praise that includes cue words like “good outside ". Food treats and "Clicker"work wonders. I use for training book "Dog Whisperer"and I love the ways of gentle teaching and a positive rewards.
FEEDING PUPPIES:
You should have got some food from the breeder, first day give only this food, next day mix 2/3 of this food with 1/3 of the new food you will be using, on a third day mix 1/2 and 1/2, fourth day use 1/3 of breeders food and 2/3 of your new food, by the fifth day you can use 100% of your food. This will protect your puppy from digestive stress and diarhea from changing diet.
Your 2-month-old puppy should be eating three meals per day of a good quality food formulated for small breed puppies.
Weigh your puppy each week. As your puppy ages and his size increases, he will need more food each day. More active pups may burn more calories and require more food. The opposite is true for less active pups. Every brand of food has different nutrients, caloric densities and feeding recommendations. Check the manufacturer's recommendations on how much to feed. I like dry food to have about 27% of good quality protein and 18% of fat (not less). Don't overfeed this will cause loose stools in your pup. Have fresh, clean water available at all the time .
CRATING AND TRAINING:
If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules—like what he can and can't chew and where he can and can't eliminate. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he'll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.
Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size and use a divider. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: the crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.
Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short periods of time while you're at home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as "crate" Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.
A crate is not a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated in it. Remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than few hours at a time.
A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive or from hurting itself.
REMEDY FOR CHEWING
Young puppies like to "mouth" everything, I use Bitter Apple spray on all my furniture corners weekly until puppy can be 100% trusted.